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Amazing Sicily and Tuscany

Amazing Sicily and Tuscany
via British Airways First Class
October 2012

Taormina Day 1

A couple minutes up the hill from the San Domenico is the main shopping street, Corso Umberto, a quaint pedestrian street lined by old world buildings with mostly shops, restaurants and bars.

Down at the coast which we reached by gondola, we lunched at il Barcaiolo. Even Google maps couldn't find this special but hard to find family owned restaurant just off the beach at...

On our way back from lunch...

For dinner our concierge recommended Vicolo Stretto, a great rooftop restaurant again only a few minutes walk from the hotel. Located at the top of the steps of a narrow space between two buildings. Great view, service and food. The most incredible home made tagliatelle bolognese I have ever tasted...

Late night entertainment at the nearby piazza...

Sicily Day 2

Another beautiful 85F/30C day as our private guided tour takes us to see more of Sicily.

First stop is Fiumefreddo and Castello degli Schiavi built in the 8th century, the Sicilian Baroque period.
It's recent claim to fame is as a setting for Godfather trilogy. Lots of memorabilia and pics from the filming, especially the original Godfather.

Mt. Etna is a towering presence over much of southeastern Sicily.

Next was a private visit, tour, wine tasting and lunch at Barone Villa Grande estate. This vineyard, located some 2,300 feet above sea level on the slope of Etna, produces some outstanding wines.

Our day concluded with a visit to Savoca, the location for more scenes from the Godfather.

Taormina Day 3

After a lazy morning, we took a taxi to nearby Castelmola, a beautiful village perched on a cliff above Taormina.

Spectacular view from lunch...

Exploring the village's quaint narrow streets, we found this rather unique bar with a singular fixation.

After lunch, we returned to Taormina and stopped to check out the Hotel Grand Timeo...

On our walk back to the San Domenico...

Our last night, we ate on the terrace overlooking the Ionian at the San Domenico Palace's Michelin star restaurant, Principe Cerami.

CTA-FLR
Catania-Florence
Alitalia 1672
Economy
Seats 11CD (Exit Row)
A319
3:00P-4:30P
September 30, 2012

First time on Alitalia in nearly 10 years. I was a little concerned about lack of advanced seat selection on domestic flights until the day before departure. But the process was actually pretty efficient. AZ.com recognized my Sky Priority status and let me select the only two good seats on the all Y A319... cross aisle exit row seats 11CD.

At the airport, Sky Priority was again our friend as at least 100 pax were queued to check bags. There were 10 pax in something called PRIORITY Baggage Drop, but absolutely no one in the SKY PRIORITY lane. Baggage check was a breeze and we were thru security 5 minutes later, although I use the term "security" loosely with Mrs. SFO noting that the woman viewing the x-ray monitor was simultaneously doing her nails.

With an hour before boarding, we searched out the local VIP lounge, a Priority Pass affiliate, a small and pretty spartan lounge with limited snack and beverage offerings. and complimentary WiFi. We were the only pax so it was our private lounge for nearly an hour.

Boarding was easy as the gate featured a SKY PRIORITY lane, which GA called and boarded first.

OK talk about tight legroom.

For everyone but row 11.

In flight service consisted of choice of coffee, tea or water.

For all it's tourism, FLR has a very small airport with no jetways. All pax movement is by those wonderful shuttle buses, even for those pax on planes parked 100 feet from the terminal entrance.

Castiglion des  Bosco

Montalcino, Tuscany

Castiglion del Bosco is one of the most beautiful and amazing country hotel resorts one could hope to visit.  Located in the Montalcino district of Tuscany just 30 minutes south of Siena, this 800 year old 4,500 acre Tuscan estate was purchased in 2004 by Massimo Ferragamo.  Ferragamo spared no expense in restoring and building an incredible resort... luxurious facilities with only 22 suites and 9 villas, in a setting that is nothing short of stunning.

Excellent cdb website with lots of history and pics.
http://www.castigliondelbosco.com/estate/default.aspx

Castiglion del Bosco
Montalcino, Tuscany
Dell' Orcio Suite 

Where to start with one of the most luxurious suites we've stayed at this side of Trisara. Even the jaded Mrs. SFO remarked "this is amazing". Absolutely gorgeous... spacious (I'm guessing 1,500 SF), beautiful finishings, furniture, colors, decor, patio, and Fox News!

Ferragamo Tuscan Soul toiletries, but of course...

Private Tuscan Dinner with Castiglion del Bosco's head Chef Enrico

Every Tuesday, CdB offers 8 guests the opportunity to experience a special dinner prepared by Chef Enrico. We jumped at the chance for this experience. What a treat. Enrico has a great pedigree having previous worked at Joel Robichon in Paris. He is personable and very engaging. And the food was simply divine.

After a delicious Castiglion del Bosco breakfast...

We head out for our guided tour of Tuscany, starting with the beautiful vistas of Montalcino and the Abbey of Sant'Antimo, built in the 8th century.

And then tour of San Filippo winery, followed by wine tasting and lunch with the owner...

Best meal of the trip in... Pienza?

While we plan much of our vacation itinerary in advance, some of the most enjoyable memories come from the impromptu side trips.
When one of private chef dinner mates told us about their visit to a cheese maker in Pienza, we decided to visit.
Our concierge recommended and booked us lunch for us at the most amazing small restaurant... a wonderful family owned restaurant with only 4 tables. Well, we never did get to the cheese maker as lunch was an orgasmic experience lasting nearly two and a half hours.

Ristorante il Rossellino
This tiny restaurant is run by husband and wife team. He cooked, she served... the most amazing traditional Tuscan specialties.

Our primos.
The most amazing truffle pasta, all home made of course.

Steak Florentine, seasoned and grilled to perfection.

Our wonderful chef taking a well deserved break...

And the requisite celebrity pic with the girls...

On our walk back to our van.

While parking earlier, I had a brief encounter with a trash dumpster. The missing paint was now on our Avis van.
Decided to take a pic of the sucker for posterity. I'm thinking this is going to be an expensive lunch.

Mrs. SFO to the rescue as nail polish remover got rid of all the most obvious evidence. 

After lunch, we headed for beautiful medieval city of Siena.

Siena Cathedral or Duomo, begun in the 12th century, is a great example of Roman-Gothic architecture.

Not much has changed in hundreds of years.

Well maybe some things have changed. 

Piazza del Campo is famous for hosting the annual Palio horse race.

Pic of this year's race...

Off to London

After dropping our friends off at the Four Seasons Florence, we headed to fill up the tank and drop the rental off at the airport. Garmin GPS was great at getting us near the airport but Mrs. SFO and I had to laugh at how many loops of the access road it took before we found the POORLY MARKED rental car return lot. Yo, FLR. How about some better signage?? Incidentally, fourth time around was the charm.

The Four Seasons has a beautiful lobby, but a strange out of the way location.

FLR-LCY
Florence-London City
Air France CityJet 5280
Economy
Seats 17CD
Avro RJ85 (AR8)
1:15P-2:40P
October 3, 2012

Very few pax at the AF counter today and no one in the SKY PRIORITY lane as we checked our one bag.

We had 90 minutes before departure so we headed for the pre-security VIP lounge, another Priority Pass affiliate.

At about T-40 we headed to security and our "gate". I use the term loosely as FLR has no jetways. All boarding is done by bus from a open departure area.

Time to board...

Our luxurious bus to our spacious AR-85. LOL.

This is the one flight I was really dreading... two plus hours in an all Y 30" pitch 3 across AR8. But in the end, with the advice of FTers, it was actually pretty comfortable. The last 3 rows are 2x3 instead of 3x3... more room and those rows are rarely used except on full flights. Worked like a charm today as we wound up with the entire last two rows to ourselves.

Friendly DUB-based crew offered multiple rounds of drinks and sandwiches.

My first time at LCY and I can see the attraction. Very small with few pax and a great location near Canary Wharf.


Dinner and theatre in London.

Le Meridien Piccadilly
London

I chose this hotel not for its luxury but because it was a short 3 minute walk to our theatre. Front desk agent first told me that "we only upgrade Platinums", then agreed to upgrade us to a Junior Suite anyway after I convinced him that we would only stay one night. Not a great suite by any stretch but pretty spacious by London standards. Rooms need makeover, but the lobby, club room and public areas are updated and attractive. And you can't beat the location to the theatre.

Thanks to a great recommendation from baggageinhall, we had an excellent pre-theatre meal at Brasserie Zedel, convenient located right across the street from the Piccadilly Theatre.

With the help of our hotel concierge, we got great front row centre balcony seats for the musical Ghost. Enjoyable show although Mrs. SFO opined that there was a little too much singing.

Up Next: Our first visit to the Concorde Room

Today is BA New First day!

That plus The Concorde Room and I'm excited to give BA another chance. As we drove up to the First departure area, a BA representative greeted us and asked if we'd like to use the new Complimentary valet service today. Apparently, this is a very recent addition to BA First service.

Using a hotel type luggage cart, our valet escorted us the First check in area and to an open check in counter.
Pleasant chit-chat as the agent linked our AA PNR, issued our ORD-DEN boarding passes and checked our bag thru to Denver.

Security was very light and we were thru in no time, although both my bags were flagged and routed for the baggage equivalent of an anal cavity inspection. But pleasant and friendly security staff. When I joked about all the electronics in my bag, he assured me that mine was nothing compared to others, especially those going to NBO. "You wouldn't believe what people try to carry on to those Nairobi flights... car parts, plumbing supplies."

British Airways Concorde Room

Mrs. SFO no longer asks "why are we leaving the hotel 4 hours before departure?" She knows that we are going to spend time in at least one lounge. And after today's first visit to the Concorde Room, I think she's hooked and may want to leave 5 hours before departure next time. I believe here exact words were "this is better than Lufthansa" although that did come after her 4th glass of Bollinger.

Seriously though, IMO the Concorde Room is indeed on a par with LH FCT/FCL in FRA/MUC, SQ's Private Room in SIN and the QF FCL in SYD.

Nicely appointed with multiple attractive seating areas both inside and "outside" on the terrace overlooking parts of T-5.

Lunch and Bollinger in the Concorde Room Dining 

Now 1:15p or so, we decided to have a light lunch before our 3:35p departure.
Attractive dining area with booth like seating, offering much more privacy than other airlines Flounge dining rooms.

Our first glass of the Bollinger Rosé.

Today's menu.

Hah... BA pork belly?? I'd don't think so. Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me. We both decided to eat sensibly for the first time in a week with a Nicoise chicken salad. It was very good, and a 2nd glass of the Bollinger.

With the 3rd glass of Bollinger, we decided maybe food with champagne would be a good thing. So we ordered our server's favorite dish on the menu... Szechuan Beef with Udon Noodles. OMG. Sensational.

When the pax across the aisle raved about the Glazed Lemon Tart, what the hell. Ordered that with another glass of Bollinger. 

Concorde Room Menu
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Concorde Room Wine List
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T-50 and after a most enjoyable 90 minutes in the Concorde Room, it's time to head downstairs for our S class limo ride to our gate. Ha, must be all that Bollinger. OK, how about it's time to rejoin the unwashed masses for the train ride to our concourse and gate. 

Seriously, if BA did introduce limo service to the gate, now that would indeed be a game changer.

Up Next: BA297 New First to ORD

Great plane watching as we taxied out for take-off...

OK, time to play with the IFE and tray table...

IFE leaves a lot to be desired. I have no problem finding interesting movies on SQ or CX, but not here.
Dismal selection of a very few new releases and bizarre "classics".
Music selections were not much better.

Nice large tray table but one needs to move the TV monitor to raise or lower the tray table.

But the small size of the suite and positioning of the TV make it impossible to multitask... work on your laptop and watch TV at the same time.

Next up: Great inflight BA meal.

Shortly after take-off, our excellent crew jumped into action....

Today's menu...

Best International First Class Wine List??? LOL.
Other than the Grand Siecle, not even close.

Our set up....

Excellent amuse bouche...

For starter, the twice baked Parmesan and Gruyere souffle and Caesar dressing was wonderful.

For my main, the sensational roasted loin of lamb in Moroccan spices with apricot and raisin couscous, roasted vegetable and mint tomato sauce, perfectly prepared...

Apple tarte tatin with caramel sauce was very good.

Even without caviar, this was one of the best inflight meals of the year.
The Grand Siecle was excellent all the way.

Afternoon tea about 90 minutes out...

After a most pleasant 8 1/2 hours, we touched down around 6:30p.

All in all, an enjoyable day with BA. Good check-in. Loved the CCR. But the trek to the gate and boarding were not truly First. The New First cabin was attractive but seats are narrow, suites a little cramped and the IFE left a lot to be desired. Inflight service and food were both excellent. Wines I sampled were forgettable.  Overall, I'd rate BA a 7 out of 10.

 

If you travel frequently and qualify for it, NEXUS or Global Entry are arguably one of the most important memberships a US citizen (or qualified visa holder) can have.

I've had NEXUS for 5 years, allowing me to travel to/from Canada typically without even speaking to a customs agent. It's a FBI/RCMP background check ID that let's you bypass a lot of the time-consuming and annoying border crossing and security hassles that are a part of modern travel. NEXUS automatically gives you Global Entry. And Mrs. SFO recently got her Global Entry so we were ready for the crush of pax in ORD after multiple international flights had just arrived.

There were probably 300 pax in the non-US queue at ORD and another 200 in the US queue, but not a soul at the 5 self service Global Entry kiosks. We scanned our passports, answered the declaration questions and the kiosk spit our receipts. CBP agent waived us over, interrupting the processing of another pax, looked at our receipts and waved us thru. From scanning the passport at the kiosk to baggage claim in 90 seconds. Wow.

The other benefit of NEXUS or Global Entry is trusted traveler status which lets us use the PreCheck security lanes. These feature the old metal detectors and you get to keep your shoes on, keep your laptop and liquids in your bags. And I have never had more than one other pax in the PreCheck lines.

We only had to wait a few minutes for our bag to appear on the carousel. Then exited customs and drop the bag with AA to be transferred on our connecting DEN flight. A short train ride to T3, nobody at AA priority security and we were in the ORD Admirals Club a few minutes later. Since our ORD-DEN flight was a continuation of LGA-ORD and operating from K5, we decided not to trek all the way to K20 for the Flagship Lounge. The ORD AC is pleasant enough, although we were there an extra hour as our inbound from LGA was delayed.

ORD-DEN
AA 353
MD-80
Seats 6EF (row 4 of 4)
8:45p-10:15p (sked)
9:40p-11:18p (actual)
October 4, 2012
WiFi, No PDB
Snack

Like an old shoe, we were back in our favorite and comfy 6EF on a soon to be retired Mad Dog. AA introduced new menu options on October 1st so this first time with the new menu selections. Choices were hummus and veggie plate or open face chicken sandwich. After stuffing myself all day courtesy of BA, it was simple and adequate. Hummus was tasty. Didn't look like the grapes were washed though.

Meanwhile in DEN, the 83F/29C temps of the previous day were long gone and we arrived home to 41/5.
And when I went downstairs to my office in the morning, saw my first taste of winter in years. OMG, it's only October 5th.

Thanks to all who have follow our trip and commented.

Denver

After 10 years in San Francisco with no discernible change of seasons, what a treat to experience a proper autumn, not to mention wide open spaces and clean air. Had almost forgotten how beautiful autumn can be.

And the obligatory airplane pic... on approach to APA.