Our week in Beijing & Shanghai

via Air China and JAL First Class

September 2014

Getaway day and we've checked out of the hotel and are off to explore Beijing's contemporary art scene with a visit to Factory 798, a decommissioned military weapons factory converted to art studios and galleries. Really different and very cool.

And our final and most unusual lunch in Beijing, at Green T. Living, a restaurant featuring locally sourced products.

Girls of Beijing

Lots of photos ops during our four days in Beijing.

China Eastern to Shanghai

We arrived at the airport 85 minutes prior to departure.

Priority security.

Just inside security is the China Eastern First and Business Class Lounge.

Not the most spacious or attractive lounge but adequate for a short stay.

Nice plane watching.

Although a prety anemic selection of snacks.

At T-40, we headed off to our gate.

Beijing-Shanghai Hongqiao

China Eastern MU 5116

A330-300

3:00P-5:05P

September 21, 2014

First Class

Seats 10AC

Thanks to FT, I found ctrip.com, a Chinese discount travel site and bought a $225 one way F ticket or about half of what expedia.com was asking.

My vote for the ugliest livery I've seen in a long time.

Both 1L and 2L in operation today, with 1L only for First Class.

And a nice 2-2-2 Business Class cabin.

Angled lie flat on a 600 mile domestic flight. Someone is happy. :)

Pre-departure hot towel...

... and pre-departure water or juice, in a real glass.

Slippers at every seat.

Nice seat back IFE system with a reasonable selection of movies from around the world.

After take-off, snack service with tablecloth.

And another hot towel.

Curtains drawn to block galley lights and activity. Wow, what a concept.

Nothing fancy but better than Dougie's snack basket.

After an early arrival and a short walk thru a pleasant terminal, we met our guide and driver for the next three days.

The Peninsula Shanghai

As China's financial and economic centre, Shanghai features an abundance of 5 star hotels. The Peninsula commands arguably the best location on The Bund with a spectacular view of the Pudong skyscrapers and the Oriental Pearl TV tower. We've stayed at numerous Peninsula's around the world, and enjoyed every one of them. Service and food have been universally superb, until Shanghai. Despite one of the best suite upgrades ever, we would not stay here again. This Peninsula needs major help with its restaurants and staff training. There is a reason that there was no one in the restaurants or bar. Terrible atmosphere or uninspiriing menus and wine list. Young, green waitstaff and clueless housekeeping who yap to each other in the hall and think turndown service at 4:45P is appropriate and then knock on the door to collect towels that they left by mistake. Seriously??

The lobby restaurant and bar. Meh.

Beautiful art deco theme through-out.

Our Suite 818, a massive one bedroom corner suite.

Oh my, what a view...

Back down the hall.

To the beautiful bedroom.

After a great night's sleep, breakfast with a view.

And daytime pics of our suite.

And another view of the beautiful Shanghai Pudong skyline.

Shanghai Day 1

After a clear late afternoon yesterday, it was cloudy and rainy for most the rest of our visit to Shanghai. Shanghai is so very different from Beijing. With a population of some 25 million and growing, it is larger than Beijing and more densely populated. With an early British but in particular French presence, Shanghai has a much more western feel. Indeed, with tree lined streets, shops and outdoor cafes, it almost seems like you are in Paris at times.

Our first morning was perhaps the most fascinating of our trip. We spent the morning with an American expat consultant/historian who has lived in Shanghai for nearly 20 years. A member of the Shanghai Historical Society and recognized as one of the experts on the history of Shanghai and its buildings, it was fascinating to learn how Shanghai was settled and evolved into China's trading hub. First the British, then French, then Americans were granted the right to live and work in what amounted to their own protectorates with the city. The French Concession is the most lasting vestige of that time. Next to our hotel, the former British consulate, until recently a Communist Party reception centre.

Then back to the Bund, Shanghai's beautiful water front avenue.

When completed, this building will be the tallest in world after Dubai's Burj Khalifa.

No not Mao, but rather Chen Yi, the city's first Mayor after WW II.

Inside the former headquarters of HSBC, now a Government bank. Fortunately, the ceiling and panels were preserved during the revolution when a bank official convinced party militants that it would be easier to plaster over the decadent mosiacs rather than having to replace a destoyed ceiling.

I only got 2 pics before security stopped me. Not sure what the issue was as there were no customers to be seen anywhere in the cavernous old facility.

Next a walk thru the lobby of the new Waldorf.

And a stop at one of the few remaining old homes still open to the public, as a museum.

Next up was a walk down narrow street to the "lane homes". Narrow allies where multiple families still live in small rooms with primitive conditions and no plumbing. Block by block, these residents are being evicted and moved to "apartments" in the suburbs, so they new luxury apartments can be constructed. Save for a few lanes preserved as history or converted to trendy shopping, restaurante and bars, most of these will be gone in a couple of years.

And will replaced by these...

We bid adieu to Patrick and met our guide Priscilla for lunch at Ye Shanghai.

Then a walk thru preserved and gentrified lane homes, now shops, bars and restos.

The line is to view the building where the Communist Party was founded.

And more exploring the gentrified lanes of Shanghai.

After a rest at the hotel, we headed out for dinner at highly recommended M on the Bund. This was apparently the first fine dining restaurant on The Bund. Its success started a procession of new restaurants including numerous celebrity chefs from around the world.

Back at the Peninsula, we decided to head to the bar for a nightcap and dessert. OK, there is something seriously wrong with the hotel when we were the only patrons in the bar at 9PM.

Desserts were good, but where are all the people??

And back to the room, where one never gets tired of this view.

Shanghai Day 2

Another gloomy rainy day in Shanghai as the effects of a typhoon/tropical storm still affect the region. On the other hand, temps were perfect for exploring more this fascinating city. This morning we met our new guide Simon and are off to the Shanghai Museum, which boasts a collection of 120,000 pieces of Chinese cultural relics some dating back to the 21st century BC. The bronzes and jades were fascinating and reflected how advanced China was 2,000-3,000 years ago.

After our morning at the Museum, off to lunch. With a stop at a video knock-off shop where we bought 3 classic Chinese theme movies and 2 Rosetta Stone language sets (Mandarin and Arabic) at a ridiculously low price.

To The Chinoise Story, restaurant selected by our tour company. Most of the preselected lunch restaurants have been great. This one was a clunker though as all the awards it earned seemed to have been more than 5 years ago. Meh, not so good.

After lunch off to Yu Gardens.

And finally the garden itself, some 400 years old... a beautiful example of traditional Chinese garden design.

After a rest back at the Pen, our wonderful Shanghai driver, Mr. Zhong drove us to Three on the Bund. First stop the 7th floor for a drink at New Heights where the view is amazing. Unfortunately, the rain meant drinks inside instead on the terrace.

And then down to the 4th floor and dinner at Jean-Georges. OMG, one of the best meals of the year!

The formal Jean-Georges dining room featuring a more classic menu.

We ate at Nougatine, the bistro and bar section.

The Caesar was one of the best we've had outside of Chez Mrs. SFO.

The Crispy Basil and Salt and Pepper Calamari with sweet chili dipping sauce was hands down the best calamari we've had anywhere in the world.

Fried Chicken with Creamed Corn and Sweet Chili Glaze was amazing.

The Smoked Pork Chop with Charred Asparagus and Sauce Gribiche was incroyable.

Where magic is made.

Jean-Georges Chocolate Cake with Vanilla Ice Cream... to die for.

Great menu, great wine list. An amazing meal at a reasonable price.

Girls of Shanghai

JAL Business Class to Narita

After a wondeful week in China, time to head home. We used 97,500 BA Avios points each for our one way First Class return, the highlight of which is JAL First Class Sky Suites from Narita to LAX. But first up this morning, a 3 hour business class flight to Narita. We departed the Pen at 8:45A for our 11:50A JL flight.

Not much traffic this morning and we were at Pudong 40 minutes later.

And arrived at the JL counters just before they opened. And a very Asian greeting and bowing to passengers as the counters open.

After relatively painless passport control and security, we were in the long, long, long concourse. Mrs. SFO wanted to browse the duty free shops and search for Starbucks. Indeed, there is one, at the far end of the terminal near Gate 27. Since our JL flight was scheduled to depart from Gate 27, she stayed while I doubled back for lounge pics.

On the lower level by Gates 17/18.

OK, this is one ugly and depressing lounge.

Didn't check out the lounge but it has to be better than The Sakura Lounge.

And another lounge upstairs on the main level 3.

Meanwhile back to Gate 27, Mrs. SFO was nowhere to be seen, but showed up 10 minutes later after more window shopping.

Shanghai PVG-Tokyo NRT

JL 874

767-300

11:50A-3:50P (sked)

11:40A-3:35P (actual)

September 24, 2014

Business Class

Seats 3AC

Typical cram them in narrow 2-2-2 767 seating. Although dated seats, it was reasonably comfortable for a 2.5 hour flight.

Although the narrow seats leave little room for storage.

Pleasant cabin crew and a half empty cabin made for good service on this short flight.

Not much choice in wines with one option in each category. Not even close to QR Business but way better than crAApy offerings back home.

Taking orders.

I ordered a G&T and went with the Western option. Not sure if this is normal or just a today's crew but my G&T was delivered promptly but with my meal. Not sure what the rush is on a 2.5 hour flight.

Although the salad and potatoes were tasty, this "beef" looked a lot better than it actually tasted.

All in all, a pleasant short flight.

JAL First Class Lounge at NRT

After a short walk, we re-cleared security...

... and went upstairs to the JAL First Class Lounge.

Meh. A pretty tired lounge in need of a make-over.

Although a cool sake and sushi bar.

But a business class type selection of self-serve food.

Our 77W next door at Gate 61.

At around T-40, we headed over to nearby Gate 61.

JAL First Class Tokyo to Los Angeles

Gate 61 is a short two minute walk from the First Class and Sakura Lounges.

Tokyo Narita NRT - Los Angeles LAX

Japan Airlines JL 62

777-300ER

5:50P-11:30A (sked)

6:10P-11:20A (actual)

September 24, 2014

First Class

Departed 5/8

Seats 2DG

A seemingly chaotic boarding process as boarding was call a couple of times before the real deal. I had identified ourselves as F pax, so we were boarding right after four wheelchairs. A good sign is First Class pax boarding thru 1L with every one else thru 2L. At least on paper. There was no one to police the the jet bridges so at least 30-40 pax boarded thru 1L and the F cabin. Even when it was obvious, no one stopped it. Not a good start.

Nice cabin 1-2-1 cabin. The calm before J and Y pax stormed 1L.

Comfy seat and nice big armrests.

A reasonable amount of personal storage space. But the vanity mirror is useless as it doesn't tilt. The only way to use it is if you kneel on the floor. LOL.

Strange open door to the J cabin. It was closed after take-off when the curtains were drawn.

AC power although not enough juice to consistently handle my new MacBook Pro.

Yay, WiFi on board today. It worked pretty well and at only $18 was a bargain.

Just a little tacky to have this hanging at the front of the F cabin.

With no one else on the GK side, I moved over the 2K for taxi and take-off.

And yet another airline that can't figure our what to do with the space between the seat and the wall.

And some 77W innards.

A United RJ at Narita?

No, just a domestic 738 for NRT-Asia connections. Yeah, I'm sure that'll go over well.

Someone forgot to repaint this bird.

After take off, hot towel service.

Table cloth and champagne.

And finally a menu...

Quite possibly the dumbest name for inflight service. BEDD? As in Bed, Dining, Delicious and Dream. Huh? But wouldn't that be BDDD? Perhaps it sounds better in Japanese.

Interesting looking menu with some nice options. I did the Japanese menu on NH last year, but there are just too many weird things on this one for my Western palate.

And the wine list. Not bad. Some interesting choices. Clearly better than AA, UA, even LH, LX and SQ although none of the latter have great wine lists after you get past the champagne.

Excellent amuse bouche.

Showtime.

I started with another Amuse Bouche of Onion Purée with Deep-fried Onion, Fried Rice Powder Chips (beet, squid ink and chrysanthemum) and a mini quiche with Duck Raw Ham, Mac nut and Gorgonzola. Very good.

Mrs. SFO enjoyed the Potato & Celeriac Purée with Crabmeat and Japanese ginger salad with Caviar.

My Poricini velouté with Scallop and Iberico Cherizo was delicious.

For her main, Mrs. SFO had the Roasted Lobster with Spice Crust, Saffron Risotto & Short-neck Clam jus. The only Lobster loaded today!?!? Indeed, and our FA was aghast when I ordered the Lobster as well. She didn't come out and say it right away but asked "Are you sure you wouldn't like the delicious guinea fowl?" Ugh, no thank you. I'd like the lobster. "Oh, so very sorry, but there was only one lobster today". Really? "Yes, I am so sorry". OK, I'll have the Wagyu beef, please.